IRCC 7

The Seventh Annual Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge


March 1 to June 30,  2017


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Susan
Malovrh

Wisonsin, USA

 



I’ve been sewing since I was a child and enjoy making costumes, doll clothes, and quilting. This is my sixth time doing the Italian Renaissance Costume Challenge and I’m looking forward to learning new things.

This year I’m going to do an outfit for my husband. I plan to make a shirt, doublet and joined hosen, cape, hat, and shoes.


Third Update


I didn't find much time to work on the project this month so here's a short update. I did the codpiece for the joined hosen. I decided to interline it with a piece of iron-on fleece. I then sewed the pieces right sides together leaving the bottom point open for turning. After it was turned right side out and pressed, I tucked in the bottom seam and stitched it to the hosen. I still need to do the feet but have to recut some gussets I misplaced. The fit needs some more tweaking and then the waist needs to be finished.




I completed a pair of leather suede pointy toed shoes. Butterick 5233 Historical Footwear Pattern was used with a few modifications. The sole was reshaped a bit wider for a better fit and then cut out of a heavier dark leather suede. The uppers are made of a lighter weight and color leather suede. I was able to machine sew them with a heavier thread and leather needle. First the back was overlapped and stitched and then the uppers were stitched to the soles right sides together and turned right side out. Several times I wished I had a third hand but all and all it went pretty smoothly. I then punched holes for the leather thong and sewed a tab on the back to run the lacing through. They aren't quite as pointy as I was aiming for and the fronts would lay better if I'd have punched the holes a bit farther down but I'm pretty pleased with the way they turned out.





As usual, I've left a lot to do the last month. It will be exciting to see it all come together.






Second Update



I continued hand sewing the shirt in April. I added 7" square gussets under the arms and then back stitched and felled the side and under arm seams. The bottom of the shirt was on the selvages so I just turned it up once and slip stitched a narrow hem. I then gathered the sleeves and sewed a small cuff on them.





I then turned my sights to the joined hosen that I couldn't quite wrap my head around last year. I'm using Reconstructing History's 15th century men's pattern. The pattern is cut on the diagonal instead of straight of grain to give them a little stretch. I've basted the back seams and crotch and did my first fitting of them. They should be fitted to the individual for a snug non-baggy fit. My husband protested having me pin them while he was wearing them so this may be a bit of a process to get them properly fitted.









First Update

 


I started with the under layer by making a linen shirt hand sewn with linen thread. First I tore a rectangle for the body and cut a T for the neckline. I gathered that on to a 3 inch strip for the collar. The shoulders didn't lay right so I took a wedge out and made shoulder seams. I then tore rectangles for the sleeves and gathered them onto the body.























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