An underwhelming progress report
April started off with high ambitions: my plan was to complete the camicia and make a good start on the gamurra before the end of the month. So far I've finished about two and a half seams on the camicia, though in my defence I am sewing it entirely, albeit slowly, by hand.
Most of my planned outfit will be made of fabrics I have in my stash and most of those are non-period: a synthetic brocade for the gamurra, a cotton velvet for the cioppa. I'll happily use my sewing machine when sewing the long seams of these, though I'll do the finishing by hand for a better look. However, I've had nearly four metres of a fine linen in my stash for ages which was perfect for the camicia, and wanting to do the linen justice I decided that I'd sew it by hand and make it up in an as period way as possible.
The pattern I've used is Bella's own pattern. While this camicia is of a later date than my planned outfit I've leaped to the wild conclusion that the camicie probably (hopefully) hadn't changed too much during the time-frame and I wanted a pattern that'd guarantee plenty of fullness in the sleeves to get the right pooffiness.
When researching what kind of seams to use I consulted Patterns of Fashion 4 (Janet Arnold, Jenny Tiramani and Santina Levey), The Tudor Tailor (Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila) and The Medieval Tailor's Assistant (Sarah Thursfield). The run-and-fell seam appears to be the most commonly used seam for linens over a long time and is fairly quick to do despite the two-step construction. This is the first time I've hand-sewed an entire garment and using entirely period techniques though my seams are twice as wide as the ones done during the period as I didn't dare to do them narrower until I'd got the feel for the sewing. For thread I used waxed linen thread (Bockens ½-bleached bobbin lace yarn 40/2 and a nub of beeswax left over from a candle making kit).