The Ninth Annual Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge

April 1 to July 31, 2019


Krystyan Follansbee
New Hampshire, USA

I have been part of the SCA since I was small. I normally wear Elizabethan as I love wearing a farthingale. I have just recently started making my own outfits, I have never made an Italian Renaissance costume, but I am not a novice when it comes to sewing.

The outfit I'm intending to make will be inspired by the portrait of Saint Justina of Padua (right, top) by Bartolomeo Montagna painted 1490. Layer 1: camicia and bloomers. Layer 2: sleeveless petticoat. Layer 3: over dress. Layer 4: accessories. I will be making an alms purse, a set of jewelry, a fan, and a trinzale and coazzone but not the one in the 1st picture I will be doing the one pictured in La Bella Donna by Ambrogio de Predis 1493 (right, bottom).

(Updates listed in reverse order)


The Completed Outfit

(Note: Krystyan did not provide me with a final summary, so her images are presented here without it.)


Layer 1: Camicia



Layer 1 Extra: Drawers



Layer 2: Underdress



Layer 3: Overdress



Layer 4: Accessories



1. Alms Purse





2. Headpiece


Incomplete Item:




(Note: this item is considered to be incomplete as it is a single item of what should be a set of items.)








Fourth Update: July Progress


So this month I finished everything.

Items completed this month:

1. Camicia

I finished the camicia’s embroidered sleeves and attached them to the body, hand-pleated the neckline to a binding edge which was sewn on by hand, made over-sized cuffs and sewed them on by hand.



2. Under-dress

I finished the underdress by making bias tape for the edges. I attached it by hand. I padded the hem using felt, sewed on lacing rings to close the front, and added trim to the bottom.



3. Alms Purse

I made cording for my alms purse and finished it.



4. Head Piece

The head piece was cut and sewed. I then added trim and beads by hand.




Items not completed:


I cut out and sewed the over-dress from start to finish. I sewed on lacing rings by hand to close the back. Sleeves were trimmed by hand and lacing rings added for tying on. The trim was sewed on by hand. I didn't have time to finish the hem before the deadline, so the over-dress is incomplete. The hemline will be padded using felt for my final photos.








Third Update: June Progress

Ongoing items:

1. Under-dress

This month I worked on the underdress I made a new pattern. I decided to made a test dress to try the new pattern, and after a few adjustments it fits wonderfully.

I then moved onto the fabric and cut and sewed the dress. I need to cut and sew in lining for the bodice to reinforce it and add some trim to finish the dress.





2. Camicia

I worked on the embroidery on the sleeves of my camicia.



3. Alms Purse

I finished the embroidery on the alms purse. I just need to mount it on the fabric that will become the purse.

I am so pleased with the way this looks.






Second Update: May Progress


Item completed this month:


So I don’t feel that I got a lot done this past month. I finished the embroidery on the bloomers cuffs and stitched them on, finishing the bloomers.



Ongoing items:


I liked the embroidery from the cuffs so much I decided to add embroidery on the sleeves of my camicia. I have drawn the same pattern from the bloomers.

Alms Purse

I also worked on the alms purse embroidery. I fixed the shields shapes and started filling in the background. I’m totally in love with how it’s coming out.


I’m also changing the pattern for my underdress to make it so it doesn’t have a waist seam. I think it will make a more comfortable underdress, but I have misplaced my pattern paper so I don’t have a new one made yet.




First Update: April Progress


Item completed this month:


I have finished the necklace. I used 3mm and 6mm glass pearls that are ivory in color and a pretty pendant.


Items started this month but not yet completed:

1. Bloomers

I started this month by working on the bloomers. I started by making the pattern using the research shown in the picture, I then cut the pieces out of white cotton. I started by sewing the gores in at the crotch followed by sewing the legs and butt seams, then did a simple turned hem on the front to make an opening, made a simple waist band and pleaded the material into it I hand stitched the inside of the waist band so the seam wouldn’t show. I’m using a simple twisted cord for the draw string. The only things I have left to finish are the cuffs.


2. Camicia

I also worked on my camicia this month, I used the directions here to cut it from white cotton and stitched the gores to the sleeves.



3. Under-dress

For the under dress I made a basic pattern for the bodice. The skirt of the dress is simply measure and cut, no pattern needed. I will be making a trial bodice to refine the fit.




The over-dress is being made from a lovely green fabric (I am unsure what it is made of) and a gold poly/cotton for the center panel, an assortment of trim, 4mm ivory colored glass pearls and a pretty pendant for the front of the dress.



For the alms purse I bought an assortment of embroidery thread and aidas cloth. Here is what I have gotten done so far, there are a few spots I need to fix before I fill in the background.



For the trinzale and coazzone (headwear) I have found the prettiest green velvet flocked lace. I will be using ivory and gold plastic pearls to cutdown on the weight and some other beads and jewelry bits to embellish the edge of the trinzale.


The lenza is a beaded black band that holds the trinzale and coazzone in place. I started by stringing all the beads and then I braided them together, and finished it by tying it to fit my head.




I haven’t started my fan yet, but I will be using the same green from my over-dresss and some leftover trim.