
A
Crowning Glory
Hairstyles and Headwear In Venice
(Revised
November 19 '03)

"Loosen
your golden tresses, lovely Venus,
And Crown your head with myrtle and with
laurel..."
(Veronica
Gambara 1485-1550, Brescian Noblewoman and poet )
There
is no getting around it - on the whole Venetian
ladies of the sixteenth century did not take to
wearing headwear well - especially not any style
that would completely cover their crowing glory! For historical re-creationists this can be a good thing
("Thank goodness I don't have to wear a hat
in this heat"), or a not-so-good thing
("Look at her - she's got that gorgeous gown
on and no hat! What a pity...") Yes, it is
unfortunate, but not everyone is aware of the
Venetians' love for simple elegance in
everything, including their heads. Nonetheless headwear was worn, from the simple
garlands of turn-of-the-century maidens, to the
"wonderful bulbous balzo" of the
matrons of the Venetian
provinces in the 1530s, and finally the long,
flowing veils that were more often than not worn
to frame the face, neck and breast of the women
wearing it. In attempting a discussion of
sixteenth century Venetian headwear and
hairstyles, the question is not so much
"what was worn?", as "when was it
worn?"
It
can be seen in many frescos, woodcuts and
paintings that throughout the sixteenth century
women often wore nothing on the head at all,
except their up-styled, often beautifully braided
hair. There was a time when this was the
exception, rather than the rule. The beginning of
the Carpaccio era is one such time. During the
years 1490 to approximately 1500, it is
difficult, though not impossible, to find an
image of a Venetian woman who is not wearing
something on the head, be it a simple

velo
or veletto da testa (veil)... |
..or
a ghirlanda (a garland or circlet of varying
style) |
...or
a reta (a netted head dress or
hair net) |

or
a scuffia (a cap, coif or caul of varying style) |
It
must be noted, however, that most of the images I
have collected of this time period show women
engaged in activity outdoors.
This is an important point, because there is some
indication that going outdoors, out into the
public arena, was a time for donning one's best
outer garments - including headwear. Despite this
though, I have seen depictions of women outdoors
with no head covering - notably Ursula, in the
Cycle of St Ursula by Carpaccio, who wears her
hair down, and an older (presumably married)
woman in The Departure of Ceyx, also by
Carpaccio, who wears her hair in one braid
wrapped around the top of her head, as well as a
few others.
 |
After
1500, we start to see images of uncovered braided
hair, or even uncovered hair pieces! These appear
to have started as a length of hair entwined with
ribbon which was worn coiled at the top of the
head, as seen in Carpaccio's painting
"Courtesan", circa 1510 (left), and
also in a more solid form in "Two Venetian
Ladies" (also known as "Two Venetian
Courtesans", circa 1505 (right). These hair
pieces appear in scenes within the home, or in
portraits.
|
 |
After this time we
start to see ladies wearing a fabric caul or scuffia. Sometimes very little hair shows from
beneath the "bag" scuffia, sometimes hair frames the face at the
sides, with only the ends tucked into it.
Sometimes it is worn outdoors, sometimes indoors.
Click
on an image below for more information and larger
picture.
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