Preparing the Fabric
Here are a few hints and
tips that I've picked up along the way. Sometimes
I find the steps I take before cutting a bit of a
pain, but every time I miss one, without fail,
something will happen to make me regret not
having taken it!
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Always
pre-wash your fabric whether it is for
the garment, interlining or lining. Don't
be afraid to wash fabric that is labelled
'dry-clean only' , but test first: cut
two squares (15cm x 15cm or 6" x
6"), overcast all edges and throw
one in the washer on the hottest cycle
you can manage, then in the dryer on hot.
After it's washed and dry compare the two
and check for shrinkage and to see how
the wash/dry has affected the
pile/surface of the fabric. Don't worry
if it has shrunk - you want this! Better
now than after you have laboured hours
and hours on a gorgeous court gown only
to accidentally throw it in a hot wash
and have it shrink on you! In the case of
woollens the result may be less than
desirable as some wools will full with
agitation and hot water - in that case
you may want to wash further test squares
on a medium hot/warm setting and a cool
dryer.
To be
doubly sure that all possible shrinkage
and dye bleeding occurs before you cut do
a double or triple wash/dry. If at all in
doubt, for instance in the case of
expensive silks or brocades, buy enough
to make the two test squares before
making the complete purchase.
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Always
pre-wash and pre-shrink your trim too.
You would be surprised at how much
difference trim that has shrunk in the
wash after it has been sewn onto the
garment can make to its appearance. Do
not machine wash though. Try a sample
first, then immerse the trim into a basin
of hot water and detergent. Agitate a
little and let soak for half an hour or
so, then rinse twice in hot water, (more
if there is any dye bleeding) then once
in cold. I do not recommend throwing the
trim in the dryer though. Dry the trim as
flat as you can manage - laying it in
rows on a folded towel works in most
cases, but be sure it is an old towel in
case there is any dye still bleeding - in
this case you may want to give it a few
more hot washes until the bleeding stops
- you don't want your garment to bleed on
your chemise, and even sweat is enough to
get it bleeding. In the case of a trim
sample that has reacted badly to a test
immersion in hot water, you can also
pre-shrink by using a steam iron - cover
it with a cloth if necessary.
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Always
be honest with yourself about the state
of your freshly dried fabric. After your
fabric comes out of the dryer, or off the
washing line, you might find it is pretty
much wrinkle-free and easy to lay and
fold for cutting. But if not iron
it - even a light pressing will
be a marvellous help when it comes to the
next step. |
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Always,
and I mean always, when
folding your fabric for cutting, pin it
right sides together along the selvedges
every 15cm or so, having first checked
the folded edge - make sure it sits flat,
showing no signs of twisting. |
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Always,
when cutting a napped fabric, piled like
velvet, or patterned like brocades, find
the 'right way up' and mark it in some
fashion. I prefer to use the pins used to
pin the selvedges together by having the
head of the pin point "up".
This way they perform a double function,
and pinning metres and metres of fabric
won't seem quite so much of a chore! When
you cut straight skirt panels don't
forget to mark the top of each piece
before unpinning at the selvedges. Note:
this is a modern practice, in
period they didn't always care to lay all
pieces with the nap, so you can ignore
this step if you choose and be perfectly
period. |
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Always, when
trying out a new style/cut of bodice, cut
a mock-up from your interlining fabric
(if using, or old sheets, scrap fabric
etc if not, anything so long as it is
colourfast and preferably pre-shrunk) and
do a test-fit before cutting your fabric.
It is also sometimes a good idea to do
this if you tend to gain and lose weight
often. When a perfect fit is found,
separate the pieces and make permanent
pattern pieces from whatever takes your
fancy - I prefer thick brown wrapping
paper which is available quite cheaply.
This is also a good thing to do if you
are using commercial patterns. You may
want to do this for each style you make,
and label them clearly (For instance
'Palma Vecchio style dress, 1520s, Bodice
Front) you can then re-use the mock-up as
interlining pieces in your garment. |
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Always,
if pinning and draping the pattern on
yourself, use a mirror and take your
time. It's helpful to have a body double,
or at least a friend to help, but it can
be done without. So far every pattern
that I've altered or drafted myself and
draped by myself has worked out well. You
do need time, no distractions, and
patience. |
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If you are a
novice sewer who is not used to what
pattern pieces are supposed to look like,
or starting on a new project with many
unfamiliar pieces, it may be helpful to
leave the labelled pattern piece pinned
to the fabric pieces until you are ready
to sew. |
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It is sometimes
also helpful if you print out/copy your
instructions and check things off the
list as you go. Not only does this help
to remind you where you are if you should
be interrupted, but it also gives you a
sense of achieving goals. |
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Whenever you are
faced with an unfamiliar task/garment it
helps to go through each step in your
head several times before attempting it.
I sometimes do this at night before bed
as I find it helps me to remember. |
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When in doubt
ask - a friend, colleague, the pattern
company, the web author, family member,
fellow sewer - anyone who may be able to
help you with a problem is fair game. |
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Don't say to
yourself "this is too hard - I can't
do this!". It takes time and
patience to learn anything unfamiliar,
but before you know it you'll be sewing
like a pro! |
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Don't rush -
leave yourself plenty of time. That is
the foundation on which the building
blocks to success depend. |
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