Extant Italian Men's/Boy's Shirts (Camicie)



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Museo del Tessuto, Prato

c1600 - 1630

"Heavy linen shirt, embroiderd in blue linen thread. The embroidery pattern is of the mid-sixteenth century, but the bobbin lace design and slightly gathered sleevehead are early-seventeenth century."




"The inside of the wrist opening and wrist band. All the gathers of the sleeve end are held in place by six rows of stitches."


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© For more information, more detail shots, and a pattern for this shirt, see:
Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion 4. Macmillan, London, 2008.
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(The following translation is mine and as such it may be flawed. I was unable to translate a phrase - if you can help translate please e-mail me.)

 

Men's shirt
Italian, mid sixteenth century
Width 62.5cm; length 92.5cm

Shirt of Rheims cloth [linen] embroidered in writing stitch and cross stitch in blue thread with edgings of needle-lace of white and blue thread.

The body of the shirt is made up of one single piece of cloth, 185cm long, with a T shaped cut in the middle, [all'altezza delle strisce], one large and two small, the pleats at the cuff are hidden underneath the embroidered motif of a continuous branch of small pomegranates. Around the neck opening is an embroidered band that again takes up the motifs found in the embroidery and lace pattern books of the period. It compares with the shirt worn by Ippolito Porto in the painting by Giambattista Marganza. (Vicenza, Museo Civico...)

[Camicia maschile, Produzione italiana, metà del XVI secolo. Largheza cm. 62,5; lunghezza cm. 92,5. Camicia di tela rensa ricamata in punto scritto e punto croce di refe azzuro e con bordi di trina ad ago di refe bianco ed azurro.

"Il corpo della camicia è constituito de un unico pezzo di tela, lungo cm 185, con taglio a "T" a metà, all'altezza delle strisce, una grossa e due piccole, arricciate al polso sono nascoste sotto il motivo ricamato di un ramo continuo con piccole melegrane. Intorno all’apertura del collo è una banda ricamata che riprende motivi riscontrabili nei libri di modelli per ricame e trine del periodo. Si confronti con la camicia indossata da Ippolito Porto nel dipinto di Giambattista Marganza (Vicenza, Museo Civico…) ]

© I Mestieri della moda a Venezia dal XIII al XVIII Secolo (The Crafts of the Venetian Fashion Industry from the 13th to 18th Century. Ala Napoleonica E Museo Correr, Venice. 1988.


   

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