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The Realm of Venus
Presents...
he
talian howcase
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Showcasing:Jackie
Arellano-Bongard
Holland,
Michigan, USA
Costumer and Ren
Faire Enthusiast
A Venetian
outfit in the Style of the 1550s
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Jackie Says...
I
didn’t start sewing until 2003. I am not a member of the SCA or any guild, but
I do attend plenty of faires. Basically, I am just a girl who decided she was
tired of paying for dresses that looked sorta like what she wanted.
This
dress started because I wanted something different than your standard
Elizabethan at faire. I started researching and found that I loved the Venetian
painters the most, due to the fact that a lot of the women are built like
me…earthy, strong, and with lots of T&A!
I
decided on these paintings* as my main inspiration (but funny enough,
found this painting **)
after I finished the dress) and my husband bought me some wonderful silk
to use. Then I freaked out about cutting fabric so expensive. Having never
made a Venetian dress, I had no idea how to construct it and didn’t want
to cut my silk until I had everything hammered out.
So, I dug into my stash and found this fabric ***. I
figured I would make a test run dress and if it worked then I would have
two dresses! The fabric is a cotton/poly blend and 54” wide. I found it
in a local clearance bin for $3/yd. I only had 4 yards and am not a small
girl so I got very creative in my cutting. In the end there were only two
scraps left, each as big as my hand.
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I
used Margo Anderson’s pattern for the shift. It’s made from 3 ¼
yards of 100% linen and entirely hand sewn. I tried using a fuller
camicia that I had from another dress and found that I couldn’t get
sleeves over it without looking weird.
The
bodice is three layers – two of heavy canvas, one gold brocade. I
debated on adding another layer for lining, but changed my mind, as I
wanted this dress to be as lightweight as possible. Michigan summers,
while not as thermometer popping as California or Texas, are known for
their humidity a lot of times ending up around 80 %. I drafted the
bodice using an old mock-up, changing seam lines and such when needed. I
didn’t make a corset. It is my opinion after looking at paintings that
Venetians probably didn’t use stays and instead just boned their
bodices. The front is laced with ribbon through rings using ladder
lacing. I should have did a double row of rings to help straighten out
the ribbon, but got ahead of myself sewing and by the time I realized it
would have had to rip the entire bodice apart.
For the
sleeves I used the old “trace your arm” method. I slashed the top to
make the panes and added some buttons that I got off of Ebay. The sleeve
I did line in linen. It’s all hand sewn, mostly while at work. J
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The
skirt is just rectangles of fabric sewn together. I tried to do gores,
but just didn’t have enough fabric. This was probably the toughest
part of the whole dress. I couldn’t figure out how to get the front
opening to look right and still be able to get into the darn thing. I
thank Bella for coming to my rescue and sending me directions.
The brocade is cut in a slit about 8-10” long and narrowly
hemmed. Then the top is turned down about 4-5” at an angle near the
opening and about 1-2” at the sides and back. Then I just eyeballed
it and cartridge pleated it directly to the bodice. |
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the accessories I made myself. The components to the jewelry are all
from Michael’s. I got a hair piece from Sally’s Beauty Supply
because I chopped all my hair off after the first time I wore this
dress to fair. The flag fan I made using the directions from the
Renaissance Tailor’s website. I hand painted the design onto heavy
card board and edged it with some lace. It works amazingly well. It
took me about a day to make and it’s probably the thing I get the
most comments on. |
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All
in all, this dress was a blast to make. It took me about 3 weeks with most of it
being hand sewn at work (Don’t tell my boss!). It’s definitely one of my
favorites, despite starting out as a “trial run”. Also, thanks to the
following ladies for all the help whether they realize it or not- Jen T. , Alyxx
I. , and of course Bella.



If
you would like to contact Jackie you can do so at Damara521
(at) yahoo.com
Would you like
to be Showcased? E-mail
me!
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