The Realm of Venus
Sahrye Cohen; San Francisco CA, USA
(Kingdom of the West,
Shire of Cloondara)
Costumer and SCA Member
outfit in the Style of the 1460s - 1480s
Francesca: Battle between Heraclius and Choesroes 1452-66 - this one
clearly shows how the back of the farsetto is constructed.
Francesca: Torture of the Jew 1447-1451 - showing both the farsetto
Several years ago
Sebastiano and I had the opportunity to go to Siena for the Palio
and this inspired the creation of some Sienese garb for the SCA.
The basics of Sienese clothing
and Florentine clothing of this time period would have been very
similar. From Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families Fortunes and Fine Clothing
by Carole Collier Frick it seems as though the Sienese were actually
considered somewhat foppish, at least in comparison to the more
somberly dressed male Florentine. Most Florentine men of wealth seem
to dress for their portraits in red and black (very expensive colors),
although in frescos we see many other colors in daily life, including
blues, yellows and greens. Wools and silks are the fabrics of choice
as outer/fashion fabrics in Central Italy during the Renaissance, with
white linen being used for undergarments.
garb is of the mid-late 15th century from around Florence and Siena.
Components are a shirt, brais, full hose with codpiece (calze),
doublet (farsetto), overgown (cioppa) and a hat.
sources I used to make the calze, farsetto and cioppa are The Medieval
Tailorís Assistant by Sarah Thursfield, this
website by Liz Jones, Medieval Military Costume, by
Gerry Embleton and The Medieval Soldier by Gerry Embleton
and John Howe
and cioppa are made of wool with a linen/cotton lining.
The farsetto is interlined in canvas and the cioppa is edged
with faux fur to simulate the fur lining that would have been found on
some of these garments.
One of the most
difficult parts was getting the pleats in the cioppa to look like the
rounded and very regular pleats that appear in paintings and frescos.
I ended up sewing a belt at waist level to the inside of the
garment to secure these pleats.
most difficult item was the calze.
I decided to make full hose, which have the legs joined and a
codpiece and are seen in the later part of the 15th
century. These calze are
made of wool gabardine cut on the bias and required numerous mock-ups
and fittings to get a good end result.
Sebastiano would like to point out that it was all worth it in
the end to make him happy.
Gerry. Medieval Military Costume Recreated in Colour Photographs.
The Crowood Press: Wiltshire. 2000
Gerry and John Howe. The Medieval Soldier: 15th century campaign life
recreated in Colour Photographs. Windrow & Greene: London. 1994
Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes and Fine
Clothes. Johns Hopkins University Press 2002
Sarah. The Medieval Tailor's Assistant: Making Common Garments 1200-1500.
Costume and Fashion Press: Hollywood, CA. 2001
The dress diary for
this outfit can be found here.
If you would like to contact Sahrye you can contact her at sahryec
Would you like
to be Showcased? E-mail